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Construction Materials and advice https://ww.one-ring.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27722 |
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Author: | Hodush [ Sat Feb 01, 2014 11:32 am ] |
Post subject: | Construction Materials and advice |
I'm just after some advice regarding a few things. The intent is to put together a few different pieces from Rohan, MT, Dale & Laketown. They don't have to be perfect, but I don't want to say "I wish I used x product" once I'm done. Firstly, I need to ask about polyfilla. I have seen it around at the shops and seen our very own Dagorlad use it. How is this different to plaster? Is it heavier or lighter? I am intending on using this for walls and roofs. I'm fairly sure it would be lighter than any casts and presumably just as durable. The downsides I see are it needs to be all done by hand and that it is a bit more expensive. Is there anything I need to know? I'll try texturing with foil or a green scourer. Next up is molds which are an alternative to using polyfilla as it might give better results so I am looking at Hirst Arts molds. I have decided against using the bricks as I think they are slightly too big for buildings, but would be ok for fortresses. Firstly, I am wondering if they can be sanded down a bit so the texture doesn't stand out as much or does this not give good results? Secondly, has anyone tried filling in the gaps between bricks? I imagine it would be quite difficult to do this. Thirdly, I am after your advice for a few molds. http://www.hirstarts.com/molds/molds3.html https://www.dwarvenforge.com/forum?func=view&catid=3&id=35882 Looking at mold #220 (wooden planks), would this work well in the context of Bree or would you use balsa or Popsicle sticks? If Balsa - how do you texture it just a bit? Do you think there is too much texture on the mold? I'd be looking to use this or similar to do the laketown walls & docks if it would work well. Looking at the link above, thats some very groovy wood. For Bree/LT roofs I'm fairly happy with the wooden shingle mold #240 - I cant see what makes the slate shingle mold #245 different. Laketown roofs are a bit more haphazard, but I can't think of anything else except doing it by hand (which is still a possibility). http://www.thebigthink.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/IMG_7069.jpg http://www.thebigthink.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/IMG_7070.jpg For Dale roofs I'm looking at #230. This is the reason I am looking at ANY molds. I can do the rest by hand if I want, but doing curved tiles would be quite difficult I would think. The problem is that it looks quite uniform, which it has to to function, but i'm not sold on it. On further viewing, I don't like the fact that there is no overhang of each tile, which is what makes it uniform to me. Thoughts? Thanks a bunch! |
Author: | Oldman Willow [ Sat Feb 01, 2014 3:10 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Construction Materials and advice |
Hodush wrote: Firstly, I need to ask about polyfilla. I have seen it around at the shops and seen our very own Dagorlad use it. How is this different to plaster? Is it heavier or lighter? I am intending on using this for walls and roofs. I'm fairly sure it would be lighter than any casts and presumably just as durable. The downsides I see are it needs to be all done by hand and that it is a bit more expensive. Is there anything I need to know? I'll try texturing with foil or a green scourer. Polyfilla is a brand name I have not used. I am in the US. I understand it is a Spackling compound. It primary use is to fill imperfections or very small damage like nail holes in dry wall in preparation for painting. I use Dap Dry Dex to fill the gaps between Hirst Art bricks. It is pink when wet but drys white. I press it into the gaps and remove the excess with a large flat wet brush.The pink color is very helpful. I use Joint compound for texture. Joint compound primary use is to fill large gaps between dry wall during construction.It is used in conjunction with dry wall tape to finish corners and ceiling joints. It can be mixed with paint and used to texture ceilings. You would have a very hard time tapeing a joint with Spackling. You may use your fingers, brushes,clay tools,oil knives or sponges to apply the texture. Quote: Thirdly, I am after your advice for a few molds. http://www.hirstarts.com/molds/molds3.html .https://www.dwarvenforge.com/forum?func ... 3&id=35882 Looking at mold #220 (wooden planks), would this work well in the context of Bree or would you use balsa or Popsicle sticks? If Balsa - how do you texture it just a bit? Do you think there is too much texture on the mold? I'd be looking to use this or similar to do the laketown walls & docks if it would work well. Looking at the link above, thats some very groovy wood Some of my friends like the wooden planks a lot. I like wood better. The planks have to be cast from Hydrocal UltraCal-30 or something even harder. Plaster of Paris is way too soft. Pottery plaster is too fragile. The planks will have to be based with something like MDF or plywood or they will flex and break. "Very groovy wood" It's cool man Some people like the exaggerated wood texture. It easier to paint. Wood Popsicle sticks/ craft sticks are basswood http://www.woodcraft.com/family/2000671/basswood.aspx Balsa wood is very soft and light weight use it for flying model airplanes. Some people like it for model work. Probably because you can cut it with a razor. I think that basswood is better for wargaming because it is harder. It is also harder to work with. When scale is less important than durability use Basswood. I am going to use basswood craft sticks and wooden dowels for the docks. I will stain the basswood with Min wax weathered oak before I glue it together. I will then texture the basswood with a wood burner after I stain it. I will probably use some cast parts for stairs and details. I will cast them from resin unless they are out of reach on the model. Quote: For Bree/LT roofs I'm fairly happy with the wooden shingle mold #240 - I cant see what makes the slate shingle mold #245 different. Laketown roofs are a bit more haphazard, but I can't think of anything else except doing it by hand (which is still a possibility). http://www.thebigthink.org/wp-content/u ... G_7069.jpg http://www.thebigthink.org/wp-content/u ... G_7070.jpg For Dale roofs I'm looking at #230. This is the reason I am looking at ANY molds. I can do the rest by hand if I want, but doing curved tiles would be quite difficult I would think I have the roof molds. They have a lot of utility. They will need to be cast from Hyrocal or something harder. Textured paper and doll house wood shingles are options too. |
Author: | Dagorlad [ Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:08 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Construction Materials and advice |
I should own shares in the company that makes Polyfilla. I use it a lot and never fail to be pleased with its finish, whether it be for roads, walls, earth, rock or sand. I bought some Hirst Arts moulds ages ago but never use them. They are exceptional quality and will last you for years, but I don't find they give me the versatility that I want. They couldn't build Rivendell for example. [note that the bridge isn't fully painted yet] The masonry on the bridge was a 1mm thick layer of polyfilla. I pressed a kitchen scourer into it while it was still wet to get the rough stone finish, then scribed in the joints once it was set. The cliff was made from large blobs of polyfilla pressed onto the foam base and then sculpted using scrunched up aluminium foil. You can see some unpainted polyfilla at the bottom of the picture. Two very different results using the same product. |
Author: | Oldman Willow [ Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:28 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Construction Materials and advice |
Polyfilla seems to be very effective. I will try some if I can find some. Dagorlad the bridge looks great please post more often. |
Author: | Hodush [ Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:52 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Construction Materials and advice |
Thanks for the comments guys. I'm much more willing to take the jump with polyfilla/spackle now. Old man willow - do you have any pics of the molds in action? I will check your wips when I get back tonight. GtG and Dagorlad - thanks for the pictures - they will be very handy to copy off when the time comes Also Dagorlad - would you mind telling me where you get your stuff from as I might be able to find the same stores in Sydney which would be much easier. |
Author: | Dagorlad [ Mon Feb 03, 2014 9:29 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Construction Materials and advice |
@Hodush. The cheapest place for Polyfilla I've found is Bunnings. Make sure you get the red labelled version for "Large Cracks" - there are a few varieties available, but that one is the most versatile for this hobby. @OMW - I would send some to you if the shipping costs weren't so prohibitive. And yeah, I should post more often. |
Author: | Oldman Willow [ Mon Feb 03, 2014 3:26 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Construction Materials and advice |
Dagorlad wrote: @Hodush. The cheapest place for Polyfilla I've found is Bunnings. Make sure you get the red labelled version for "Large Cracks" - there are a few varieties available, but that one is the most versatile for this hobby. @OMW - I would send some to you if the shipping costs weren't so prohibitive. And yeah, I should post more often. Shipping cost are prohibitive. I searched some of the railroad and hobby forums for more information on Polyfilla. It is a Cellulose spackling compound. I will look at wall patch "Large Cracks" formulas for a US substitute. A lot of the rail road model builders use dry wall mud but few of us carve it. Spacking compound was recommended by several who do carve strata. Hodush wrote: Thanks for the comments guys. I'm much more willing to take the jump with polyfilla/spackle now. Old man willow - do you have any pics of the molds in action? I will check your wips when I get back tonight. No but here is a link http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=utu ... BF4FE79855 |
Author: | Gandlaf the Grey [ Mon Feb 03, 2014 8:04 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Construction Materials and advice |
Charlie, I pick mine up from my local DIY store, have a try there for it. If not Polyfilla by name I'm sure they will sell something identical. This might help you. http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/in ... topic=1219 |
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