Foam
It is a product sold as building insulation. It is very light weight medium density foam. The brand name is Foamular from Home Depot and is available in 1" X 2' X 2' for those of you in the states.
The stair has a MDFB core. I am going to add some pine braces so that I can use screws to secure it to the base. MDFB is not very good for that. Special furniture hardware is necessary.
Anna,10 said I need to explain better. So I am going to try. I know some of this is very basic for most hobbyist.

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

I added some better pics of my Second Hall over on my WIP thread - take a look and see if they are of help for your project. I have the pieces up on our living room floor for a while, so let me know if you need more pics - now it's easy to take them!

Thanks


Here is what I did this morning.
the photos are very useful

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

Looks great, I love the additional stairs in the background. One question, though - I assume the door at the lower left hand corner of the photo will eventually lead to the second hall, yes? Would the Bridge of Khazad-dûm be then oriented towards the camera somewhere left off-picture? In other words, you are not attempting to place the second hall so that the Bridge is visible from the top of the Durin's Causeway like in the movie?

Coming along great!

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Instagram @abbmodels

I have been studying your model. Your causeway is shorter than my reference photo. I like the idea. I am not sure if I should build the bridge and then fit the Hall into the space left over or do something else. I can change the angle of the walk way or shorten it. I am not sure I have room to add this detail



I will place the bridge so that it can be seen like in your model and the reference photo. I just need to work out some angles.



I made a mistake not buying this model. It looks like I need to make the top of the stair a bit wider too.

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

True, my causeway is shorter, and in a different angle compared to the Weta model. I had always difficulties in decoding just how the entry into the Second Hall after the stairs is done. In the end, I had to modify the gaming terrain compared to the Weta reference - the resulting Second Hall would have been far too long to store sensibly. I think my general idea is correct - the causeway ends in a side doorway / arch into the Second Hall just on the bridge-side of the chasm (which is also seen in the Weta model, but much further out from the bridge compared to my gaming terrain). At one point I even considerd adding a roof to the Second Hall, but thought that as a waste of foam in the end. I don't have the model either - just the pics. The only Weta environment I have so far is Rivendell - it's very nice, and helpful for building a version for my model railroad. I actually initially planned using the Weta environment directly on the RR, but it is very heavy, and not really suited for my jigsaw puzzle -type scenery. I'll make a copy mostly from paper, I think...

Parmesan"]Coming along great![/quote]
Thanks



Celevue's question.

I think a hall with 6 large pillars will fit about here. I am unsure both the Hall and the bridge will fit on a 2' X 2' we will see. I am unsure where the the entrance will be it is unclear from the reference photo.

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

We crossed posts. I was checking the scenario book from The Fellow ship of the Ringing The The escape from Dwarrowdelf board is 56 cm X 84 cm or 24" X 36' the Fellow ship will have to finish in the hall to travel enough distance. So I am going to use the long walkway.

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

This is developing excellently! Can't wait to see more!

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Better, though difficult, the right way to go, than wrong, though easy, where the end is woe. John Bunyan - Pilgrim's Progress

We have always considered the board dimensions given in the Journeybook scenarios more as guidelines, and my Moria terrain size was more dictated by the availabile storage space rather than the scenario specs. Another good example is our latest game at the Ford of Bruinen - the river was at least twice the width of the scenario specifications, but that didn't seem to affect gameplay much. Another major deviation coming up is Amon Hen, where we will probably play the three individual scenarios simultaneously on a fairly large board (provided that our Fellowship, or parts of it, survive Moria, of course).

I am trying to keep this a player friendly table. I have to keep it at about 2' X 2' for storage and transportablity. I have to take care the players can reach the models.



There has to be space for the models to stand. There will be no debate that a figure can jump from one point to another. My figures have magnetic bases. I am making stair base adapters so the stairs wont cause problems.



I am not sure I should try to squeeze part of the hall on to this section. I also think the 3" risers might not be high enough. How far should I make the bridge from the stair?

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

We might, in fact, have challenges reaching the models on my Helm's Deep terrain with all the individual pieces included - I'll have to check it once I have a skeleton of the board done. Stair base adapters sound like a good idea - how are they done? Another stair piece with flat bottom turned upside-down?

On my Moria terrain, the bridge is about 70 cm away from the nearest staircase side. On your photo, I'd suggest one row of columns on the visible section, with the bridge moved perhaps 15-20cm further way from the stairs.

For the most part yes. I am going to use hard board and sheet steel bases. I will have to make some kind of cross cut saw jig to cut them safely with power tools. There is no reason not use match sticks or foam core and a razor. I just want to make a new cross cut sled for my table saw.


That is much closer than I thought.



The hot knife works better than expected for carving rock faces. I will probably use the more traditional plaster bandage to finish the slope and details around the stair.



I used the Hot knife at the bottom of the photo to carve the pink foam.
The hot knife jig cuter in the box is over kill in any kind of hobby work.

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

The whole thing is going to be even bigger than I thought - having a mini in there for scale really helps. The plaster blocks look great - reminds me of the Minas Tirith walls and towers.
I envy you the neat looking tools. I use blades of the unpowered variety I get there in the end. Much of Balrog's Doom was created using a fruit knife (not joking).

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Published ebooks:
Instrument of the Empire
A Note of Defiance
Phantom Ships, Ghost Flotilla
More to come!

I have used a fruit knife to cut foam. It makes a huge mess.
But so does every thing else

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

I added the first of the rock faces.

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

All of sudden everything starts to blend together. Lovely work and excellent foresight in the way you've planned this.

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Commission Service Available

mallysminiatures.blogspot.co.uk

Looks great, looking forward to seeing it painted.

Thanks



Thanks but I have had to make adjustments to the plan to accommodate some of the inspiration I found on this site.
The stair has a new foundation. I added 4 inches after discovering the reference photos. Celevue's links were also very helpful.



I will finish detailing the stair over the next few days'



This side will be totally hidden by a rock wall but will be open on the back.
I plan to have some fun with it. It will remain a separate part. For all intent and purposes it will be a giant adapter for my Hirst Art Dungeon. I am going to put a lot of effort into the One Ring Role playing game.

The next stage will be laying out the Hall and the Great bridge.

Suggestions are welcome. I would especially like to hear what you think about Moria teamed dungeon and cave rooms.

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"