Well, it's been a year since I first had the idea of getting the thing (more, actually) and two nights ago, I finally ordered it. It will maybe get here before New Years.

Now...all I gotta do is paint and flock the damn thing. I kinda want a multi-purpose board that could be Arnor, could be northern Rhovanion and might be parts of Gondor in a pinch.

First, yes, I have to cover up the skulls. So, that's greenstuff.
Then undercoat. I presume, to be on the safe side, I need a new tin of Choas Black undercoat.

But what then? What worked for you?

Modelling sand?

I considered getting the terrain painting set, but 50 dollars for a paint brush, some random pot of paint, some smaller random pot of ochre paint and some static grass might be a bit much. Especially since I could probably get a pot of random brown paint cheap someplace.

I also want to use my old Citadel Gaming hills, which are the basic old green static grass tone.

So...share your ideas, pictures or rambling!

Gavin

Well Gav, I've done a bit o' noodlin' on this here topic as I've been angling to buy me one of these boards. So here's some food for thought from someone invested in an optimal outcome:

- First off, don't waste expensive green stuff on those skull craters. Go to your hardware store and buy a small pot of concrete patch. It's cheap, it's got texture and you can use it on other terrain projects. (I use it on my Flames of War bases and it works great.) Just make sure to clean any tools and clothing before it dries!

- Second, texture. The board has some molded texture but could use more. DO NOT use the GW stuff because a) it's too expensive in the volume you need and b) it's a bit too coarse. Go to a craft store or even a hardware store and find some FINE play sand (i.e. for sandboxes) or perhaps floral sand (ballast for flower arrangements).

Fine sand is important or your board surface will be too bumpy. I used a coarser grade on my first wood game board and regret it. Let's just say that movement trays don't exactly glide across them.

Get a big pot of PVC (Elmers) glue, dilute with about 1 part water to 3 parts glue, shake sand, let sit for a couple hours, pour off onto a newspaper to use again.

Plan out where you want flock/static grass and where you want dirt so you can economize.

IMPORTANT - If you are going to texture with sand, (as opposed to just use static grass), it's worth the time and effort to seal it with another layer of thinned down white glue. Once you do this, it's very hard to chip off. Don't skimp on this step and your boards will be quite durable.

- Third, I'm a big believer in 3 layers of drybrushing to give depth. Black basecoat, Scorched Brown, Calthan Brown or Snakebite Leather, Bleached Bone. (Or some combo of your own.) BIG TIP - Do not splash for GW's overpriced terrain painting kit. Take your bottles to Home Depot (or equivalent DIY store) and have them mix you some matte acrylic house paint in the smallest can possible (quart?). Bob's your uncle.

- Fourth, grass/flock. Use two tones. Get some of the bright green to match your GW hills (I have the same ones, so this was a thought for me too.) but also get some duller green (GaleForce 9 has some that's between bright green and scorched tan). See the link for some patterning ideas. Now, you could skip the sanding step above by going with just grass on all areas excepting the rocky outcrops. See attached article from Dakka Dakka.

Something to consider is a static grass applicator. It makes the grass actually stand up when you apply it. It's great for large surfaces, the off-the-shelf version is crazy-pricey but there are instructions for a DIY version.

http://www.micromark.com/NOCH-GRAS-MAST ... agodARezig

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAEmcqc-yIc

http://www.ztrains.com/pages/tech/grass ... nator.html

Spray grass with matte varnish sealer (GW Purity Seal) see Panic's caution in the Dakka article. I like his idea of hand-vacuuming the loose grass. The alternative is tipping and pounding onto a news paper.

Fifth - One shortcut you could consider is skipping the sanding/drybrushing and just using different color spray paints to mottle the board brown, paint/drybrush the outcroppings by hand, then grass it up. That would be fast. Just seal the Devlan Mud out of that grass.

These are the articles referenced above:

http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184080

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Terra ... 20Standard

Good luck and post your progress/results!

Well, the father in law has a big back of sandpit sand for some reason. And I have lots of PVA glue. And some rougher Woodland Scenics ballast stuff.

And plaster of Paris to de-skullify the thing.

I suspect the trick will be to lay out the "green" static grass in formations that work in any configuration where the hills will be, and some of the "dead" grass stuff in logical spots. Give it all a very Scottish highlands sort of vibe.

Hopefully it will be better than my last game board, which used a Citadel Grass matt. "Looks like a golf course" my friend helpfully said.

Hey Gavin, I was thinking using the Grass Mat would be a good idea and a cheap alternative to some of the more expensive options, would you mind posting some pics of that board?

Good luck with your Realm of Battle project

You mean my old board?

Alas, it died a sad and unlovely death. It went into the garage during renovations and, well...ended up covered with mold and crud.

You can see some glimpses of the old board here:
http://www.mithril.ie/FanPaintings/gavi ... ndex2.html

I melted a river shape down the middle of the board with a paint stripper and then filled the river with Woodland Scenics realistic water. Alas it melted the board, so it drained into the styrofoam. Eventually I fixed that problem to create something of a river.

I had intended, during the fall to make a new 4 piece "modular" board in much the same way as the old board, but the realities of moving meant I really couldn't make such a thing yet. I might when I move to my new place. But for now I'll settle for the Realm of Battle. I will make a work in progress thread though.

Gavin