Hi all,
I'm attempting to do some work with GWs water effects soon and wanted some ideas on two things
1) I want to build up the depth of the water quite a bit but it's going to be freestanding (sorry, didn't know what else to call it ). TheBucklandBrewer has done something similar HERE so if Bart stumbles across this I'd appreciate some ideas on how to create some formwork and how to stop the water effects sticking to it.
2) I want the water to look reasonably murky, any ideas on how to colour the water effects - just add paint, ink

Cheers in advance for your help,
Pinky

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Ash Nazg Durbatulûk, Ash Nazg Gimbatul,
Ash Nazg Thrakatulûk Agh Burzum-ishi Krimpatul.

For your second question, i'm pretty sure you can't color the water, but you can paint the bottom to make it look murky, go to this website http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics. ... ToVideosWS, it will tell you how to paint the bottom of your water.

hope this helps

feanorthenoldor

I'm having the same problems, just bougth water effects so I'll watch this very often.. (:
and yes, you just have to paint the bottom and then fill it with water effects.

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only 0,25 cm water aint it?

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I have seen people add thinned down ink to water effects. Don't add much or it will make the water cloudy.

Well, I've never actually done a water effect, but I think you can get the freestanding look by building a removable frame around your piece. Just make sure that it is sealed at the bottom, so the water-effect doesn't leak out, and you should be fine.

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I cant speak for Bart, obviously, but I'm pretty sure he had some sort of barrier in there that he removed after the water was cured. Maybe some good masking tape or plasticine. Some resins do eat foam, so be carefull with that.

I never used GWs water but I used Woodland Scenics Realistic Water and you can tint it with just a couple of drops of ink or food colours. Its deffinetelly a good idea to make a test piece before to avaid nasty surprises though.

The depth of water has more to do with how you paint the bottom before you pour the water, than with how much you pour. You can make it look really deep and use just half a cm of water.
Obviously, if the water is standing like that one on Barts diorama, the depth of the actual water is important too.

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I read in a GW article about Water Effects HERE (You have to be signed in to access the article, in the PDF link on this page) that you can just mix in some paint til you get the right colour but I wanted to know if anyone else has tried it and if so how did it turn out?
I still want it to be clear but I want it to have a murky look to it when you look at it from an angle that doesn't have an area of paint under it.
Hope that makes sense.
Cheers,
Pinky

Edit: Mine will have a built up area of water similar to Bart's, in that it will be quite deep and not be totally enclosed in the base. Any ideas on what to make the support for the water out of so that it doesn't stick, I'm worried that if I make it out of wood the water effects will seep into the formwork and I wont be able to remove it without wrecking it. Do you think plastic will do the trick?

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Ash Nazg Durbatulûk, Ash Nazg Gimbatul,
Ash Nazg Thrakatulûk Agh Burzum-ishi Krimpatul.

Try this link:

http://www.hirstarts.com/tips24/tips24.html#river

Painting water, making fish. Taping the edges are all covered. Hope this helps.

I do not like using foam for water bases. I use hard board or wood.

Photo here:

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

Thanks mate, it's helped a lot

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Ash Nazg Durbatulûk, Ash Nazg Gimbatul,
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THIS thread might be helpful.

Cheers,
Steve.

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Thanks mate, it probably pays to search these things before asking questions

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Ash Nazg Durbatulûk, Ash Nazg Gimbatul,
Ash Nazg Thrakatulûk Agh Burzum-ishi Krimpatul.

Have you made any progress with your water effects?

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"the same as a duck you must be made of wood"

Not yet mate, still working on the base, hoping to get it painted today and the formwork built around it.

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Ash Nazg Durbatulûk, Ash Nazg Gimbatul,
Ash Nazg Thrakatulûk Agh Burzum-ishi Krimpatul.

Hey Pinky!
Sorry for the really late answer, computer crashed so I've been off for quite some time (and lost a load of files )

Anyway...

The water I used were NOCH water-drops which had to be melted in the oven, then cooled down a bit and then poured into the area.

I made a kinda barrier of some sort of plastic rim (transparant plastic such as a CD-case...). The plastic rim melted a bit aswell though because of the heat of the waterdrops (I knew this would happen since I tried it first on a spare part of plastic, not risking to ruin the diorama). Also, the waterdrops got stick to the plastic and didn't get off anymore.

But what did help well was tin-foil, it came loose just like that.
SO, to get around this part, I wrapped the plastic rim into tin-foil, making sure having the smoothest side possible on the water-side.

I attached the barrier with the kinda clay kids play with, a really thick support of this clay behind the baririer to hold it on it's place.
I still didn't trust the heat, so found a trick to play safe again.

I used a kinda duster.... an aerosol you can use to blow dust off your keyboard, of out of a pc. You know, those dusters of which the can really gets cold after spraying for a while.

Well, the thing is, what actually none should do for safety's sake.... spray it upside down (never do that on electronica or glass or anything expensive since it can freeze-burn just anything, especially your own skin)...
I'm not sure if all duster-aerosols have this effect when holding them upside down to spray, but mine did (and got empty really quickly bcause of this).

SPraying the can upside down gives a high flow of the propellant ( which is mainly freon...), and freezes whatever you spray at.
So, I sprayed that onto the modeling-clay, to freeze it and to get really cold. I made sure the clay was like stonehard of the frost before I poured the hot water-effect in it.
Because of the frost, the plastic was cool enough to hold and not to melt. Actually it made the water-effect hard out really quickly aswell.

If you wanna play safe, and not have such a duster-aerosol, you might want to try to put the entire diorama into the freezer for a while, or maybe try to use ice into the clay or something to protect the rim from melting...

Or just make a wooden rim and wrap it into tin-foil... (why didn't I think of that earlier??).

Still, use the clay to make sure the water doesn't run out of the barrier... (it does really easily!)

After hardening for a few hours (to make sure if was completely hard), I removed the rim... It wasn't really smooth, but heating a metal spatula and wrapping it softly over the water-side, it got smooth like butter.

It's great material, the NOCH water-drops! However, I don't know what happened, but two months after the diorama was made and still in perfect condition, I left the house for holidays... WHen I turned back home, and looked at it again, the rim wasn't anymore like it was before the holidays. It looked like the water was softly flooding out again. Just for a bit, it didn't get worse since then, nothing dramatic, but a pain though. (I should have complained about this by NOCH but actually forgot...)

anyway, that's how I did it

Oh, before you pour it in, don't forget to add some samm things, like plants, or worms, or even worm-trails on the bottom, ... like I added a little sculpted trout. It's just a small effort but finishes it off just to a little higher level (kinda sneaky eyecatcher for the better lookers..., heh)

Hope this helps

I also used a 1-compound water-effect to finish off the rims of the water, maily the edges of the water with the land around, and around the plants and reeds etc... It's even great to make small movings in the water, such as little waves

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Thanks for the reply mate,
I looked into those melting water effects, I think it was the woodland scenics one, but was put off by the temperature aspect of it. Also after reading a few horror stories about GW's water effects, and my own experiences, I don't think it will be suitable for what I want, mainly due to shrinkage. I found a good article on the net which is perfect for what I want and he used a clear casting resin so I'm waiting to get my hands on some of that and hopefully all will go well with that.
Cheers,
Pinky

P.S. I remember seeing your little fishy, it's details like that that make you a Master Craftsman

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Ash Nazg Durbatulûk, Ash Nazg Gimbatul,
Ash Nazg Thrakatulûk Agh Burzum-ishi Krimpatul.

I posted the pond in my work in progress.The bottom was primed black then over brushed with very dark brown and then sealed with minwax-walnut .I used a product called still water. Some people use blue if the water is out side. This one is going to be in a cave.

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Woo Hoo
I've got some clear casting resin arriving tomorrow so I'm knocking up a test base to try some deep water on, I'll have some pics later tonight or early tomorrow (Aussie time).
Cheers,
Pinky

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Ash Nazg Durbatulûk, Ash Nazg Gimbatul,
Ash Nazg Thrakatulûk Agh Burzum-ishi Krimpatul.

Great, I can't wait to see how it goes, good luck!

As promised some WIP shots of my test water base.

A quick base I knocked up in about 1/2 an hour:





A bit of blister plastic and a hell of a lot of blu tac!



The casting resin:



God I hope this is watertight



I'll post more pics when I remove the supports in a couple of days after the resin has set.

Cheers,
Pinky

P.S. I also mixed in a drop of green and brown wash to the resin, hopefully it will tinge the resin and make it look a bit murky.

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Ash Nazg Durbatulûk, Ash Nazg Gimbatul,
Ash Nazg Thrakatulûk Agh Burzum-ishi Krimpatul.